Thierry Germain
Loire (France)
Domaine des Roches Neuves has become a benchmark producer from this tiny winemaking region of Saumur-Champigny, harvesting completely by hand in over 30 parcels, all of which are vinified separately. While yields of most properties average upwards of 60 hectoliters per hectare, Roches Neuves averages just shy of 30, with some bottlings as low as 15. The difference in flavor, color, ageability, and complexity is enormous. By farming biodynamically and using only limited amount of natural fertilizers, Thierry is able to “manage” what are, in essence, “wild” vines which produce miniscule amounts of fruit. While others are pumping as much synthetic fertilizer into their vineyard as possible to reach the highest potential yields, Thierry Germain is going the other direction, using his compost only when necessary, and asking the vines to suffer to produce much, much less fruit. The end results are stunning.
Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain)
l'Insolite 2023
TASTING NOTE
Kermit Lynch, “Meaning “out of the ordinary,” insolite refers primarily to the rare
band of flint from which this classy blanc originates. But out of the ordinary is just
as fitting a way to describe Thierry Germain. One of the most pensive and ambitious
growers in the entire Loire Valley, Thierry is also one of the rare vignerons equally
deft with Cabernet Franc and Chenin. Showing just as much savory stoniness as it
does notes of fruit, L’Insolite would pair as beautifully with roast chicken as it would
with baked white fish or meaty mushrooms. “Limestone, clay and ripe, cooked raspberry with a hint of spice. At first it has an open structure but then concludes relatively firm and tannic for a Roches Neuves. Combines with a line of fresh acidity making for a taut conclusion.”
Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain)
Terres Chaudes 2021
TASTING NOTE
The appellation of Saumur Champigny is famed for its white tuffeau limestone along
the banks of the Loire dazzling cellars, châteaux built from their excavation, and, of
course, wines. Its wines are red and made from Cabernet Franc, and Thierry has
perfected the art of coaxing this grape’s soulfulness and elusive finesse into bottle.
This most recently arrived vintage of his signature red is generous, thickly textured,
and ready to impress at table.
Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain)
La Marginale 2020
TASTING NOTE
Kermit Lynch, “Thierry’s cabernet francs from Saumur Champigny are models of
purity, finesse, and drinkability. This blend of parcels from the communes of Chacé
and Varrains is only made in the best vintages, and sees the longest aging of
Germain’s reds—up to 24 months in a mix of older barrels and foudres. Thierry is a
pioneer of biodynamics in the Loire Valley, with great experience and wisdom
acquired under the tutelage of Clos Rougeard’s Charly Foucault. With incredibly
pristine, vivid fruit along with a deep, rich structure and silky-fine tannins,
Germain’s reds are grand examples of the heights biodynamic wines can achieve.”